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I was about the purchase an SOK 206 Ah battery, but was concerned by the 100A maximum discharge. I want to be able to operate a watt AC load for 15-20 minutes at a time (with charging in between). To be safe I guess I would want to size up the inverter to a watt rated inverter&#;which would then need ~120 DC amps.
Questions:
- is it necessary to size up the inverter, or can a watt inverter truly provide watts continuous.
- can the SOK battery handle this load?
- if not, should I look around for a battery with a higher maximum discharge (or learn to make a DIY battery with a higher rated BMS (Current Connected has a JBD BMS rated for 150A)).
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. This would be used for cooking with an instant pot in a camper van.
I was about the purchase an SOK 206 Ah battery, but was concerned by the 100A maximum discharge. I want to be able to operate a watt AC load for 15-20 minutes at a time (with charging in between). To be safe I guess I would want to size up the inverter to a watt rated inverter&#;which would then need ~120 DC amps.
Questions:
- is it necessary to size up the inverter, or can a watt inverter truly provide watts continuous.
- can the SOK battery handle this load?
- if not, should I look around for a battery with a higher maximum discharge (or learn to make a DIY battery with a higher rated BMS (Current Connected has a JBD BMS rated for 150A)).
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. This would be used for cooking with an instant pot in a camper van.
Let's work through this.
1) I agree that running an inverter at 100% for more than a very short period is asking for problems, so let's assume a
W inverter.. However, if you are sure your load will never be over W, then we can use that for calculating current.
Smaller inverters tend to have low efficiency, so let's assume 85%. That means the battery will have to supply /.85=W.
The battery will have to supply the most current when the SOC is low and the voltage is low so we are looking at W/12V= 98A.
98A is within the 100A spec but it sure is cutting it close.
Edit: Corrected SOC
The good news is that if you fully charge between usage, the battery will only get down to about ~85% SOC. This means the battery voltage will be higher and the current will probably be closer to 92A. That is still pushing it, but not quite as bad.
If you choose an inverter with higher efficiency, the numbers will get better. (A 90% efficient inverter would draw 87A-93A)
@Alice brings up a good point.... but perhaps in a different way than she intended.
This would be used for cooking with an instant pot in a camper van.
This is a resistive load so I am not too concerned about large surge currents....but there could be a higher initial current while the heating element gets hot. My guess is it would not be bad enough to cause a problem but I would feel better if there was more head-room in the numbers.
However, does the nameplate say W? If so there may be more headroom than we thought. Nameplate ratings are worst-case so if the nameplate says W the actual usage would probably be lower.
Do you have the instant pot? Can you put a
Kill-A-Watt on it and see the actual wattage?
If you&#;re buying a good inverter (top shelf stuff) in my opinion W will more likely run a W dependably. If you are buying a lower-priced commodity inverter, I&#;d probably choose from the W or W models.
If your total needs are resistive like the instant pot with no fridge or electronics (tv) you can probably use a less costly modified sine wave- but a pure sign wave inverter is probably a must for anything electronic or with a motor. If you burn up a fridge or a computer monitor on a modified sine wave inverter- as I have- the few bucks you saved won&#;t pay for the thing you burnt up.
Some TVs I hear have &#;dirty AC&#; tolerant power supplies in them but I think for most it&#;s a gamble. And I don&#;t know how to tell the difference.