The motor will operate at 48 volts. It may get hotter faster, which can create other issues. The bigger question is &#;Can the controller?&#;. You might want to check the capacitors of the controller. You mentioned 63 volts. In that case, a 48v will work. However, you&#;ll loose the low voltage cutoff feature, if the controller. LVC for a 36v controller is usually 30v. LVC for a 48 volt controller it is 40v. You wouldn&#;t want your 48v battery to be discharged to anything under 40v. With the 30v LVC of the current controller, you&#;d be relying on the LVC of the battery BMS. Hopefully the battery has a BMS. On the other side, max voltage for a 36v battery is about 42v. The max voltage for a 48v battery is around 54 volts. This means, having a higher voltage battery, you may induce an &#;Overcharge&#; error. So you&#;d have to play the game where you keep the 48 under 42v to avoid that situation. Very bad idea for a 48v battery. It will have a short life, and could be very dangerous.
If you want to use a 48v battery, it would be best to install a 48v controller/display combo. Be sure to get the controller and display as a bundle. They will be more likely to work with each other. Just know that if you go this route, you&#;ll be rewiring a few things at the controller, You are super lucky if you get anything plug and play. Truthfully, in the ebike world, not much is plug and play.
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Today I took my modified Gtech (removed controller and battery, replaced them with a 48v battery and controller to power the original Bafang 250w motor) on it's first outing, and was very impressed with it's 25 mile range, given the punishment I gave it, until another member suggested it might not be all that great after all (hi vfr, and thanks again for the reply).
I'd previously used this 48v battery to power another 250w hub motor through a 36v controller. I can be a bit rash at times, and was half expecting it to burn out or worse, so only gradually increased throttle time and distance, and was constantly checking the heat of both it and the battery until over time I felt reasonably sure it could take it, and feel it may even be entirely designed to take the output from a 48v battery (hard to tell given a) my state of ignorance and b) from the sparse info with and on Chinese controllers from eBay). Neither even got what you could call warm, let alone hot. Today's jaunt made both the battery and the 48v controller lukewarm to the touch.
So my first question is - was I imagining things, or can it be expected that some controllers are designed to take higher voltages, or perhaps can detect voltages and respond accordingly by limiting the input voltage regardless of source?
Which leads to my second question - if I wasn't imagining things, and the 36v controller I was using was only drawing 36v (I know - I know nothing!) and thus was indeed perfectly safe to use in that way, and yet the performance (speed, on the flat and up the hills near me) was exactly the same (or as far as I can tell), does that mean I'd get greater range from using the 36v controller in the same set up as I'm now using the 48v controller?
Please have patience with me! I started visiting this forum to learn about these things, and I certainly have, though the biggest thing i have learned is that there's even more to learn than I ever imagined!
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