Tools Buying Guide: Types, Tips, and FAQs (2024 Guide)

02 Jul.,2024

 

Tools Buying Guide: Types, Tips, and FAQs ( Guide)

In This Guide: Types of Tools | Features To Look for in Tools | Ways To Keep Your Tools Organized | Tips for Staying Safe While Using Tools | What Are The Most Trusted Tool Brands? | Frequently Asked Questions About Tools

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Hundreds of types of tools are available depending on your needs, experience level, project, and home setup. However, some truths remain evident no matter what tool you&#;re using. Tools should be durable, reliable, and safe. They should also work as designed and provide clear instructions on operating them.

If you&#;re new to buying tools, it may be intimidating to narrow down your choices. The This Old House Reviews Team created this buyer&#;s guide to give you all the must-have information you need to know when shopping for tools.

Here are some of the most popular and practical tools to keep on hand in your garage, basement, or shed.

Hand Tools

  • Adjustable wrench: These everyday wrenches are great for tightening and loosening fasteners, nuts, and bolts.
  • Allen wrench: An Allen wrench is an L-shaped tool used for loosening hexagonal screws.
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  • Bolt cutters: Bolt cutters, which come in various sizes, are useful for cutting down through materials like chains, padlocks, mesh, and wire.
  • Caulk gun: Caulk guns hold cartridges filled with sealants, which can be used to seal cracks and gaps or bond materials.
  • Clamps: Clamps help hold items in place as you work and come in several varieties, including hand clamps, spring clamps, and c-clamps.
  • Drywall saw: Drywall saws help slice through the drywall on your wall, which is needed for heavy-duty home renovation and restoration.
  • Hammer: Every toolset needs a high-quality hammer for hammering in nails, securing objects, or non-destructive striking.
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  • Hand saw: Hand saws can cut wood into different shapes, prune branches, or cut through materials like drywall and fiberglass.
  • Multitool: Multitools provide multiple quick-use tools, such as pliers, hammers, wire cutters, and shears in one convenient, portable design.
  • Pliers: Pliers can be used for gripping items or holding them in place, or they can help loosen nuts and bolts.
  • Pocket chainsaw: While an electric chainsaw is used for more heavy-duty tasks, pocket chainsaws can be helpful for cutting through small pieces of wood, such as branches on a tree.
  • Ratchet: Similar to a socket wrench, a ratchet can help loosen tough nuts and bolts.
  • Rubber mallet: A rubber mallet is an alternative to a hammer that can be used when a lighter touch is needed to avoid damaging surfaces.
  • Screwdrivers: Screwdriver sets are a must-have for any homeowner, as they can insert and remove screws when putting together furniture, making small repairs, or when completing woodworking or metalworking projects.
  • Sledgehammer: Sledgehammers can break through walls and doors or drive in heavy-duty bolts or stakes.
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  • Torque wrench: Torque wrenches help avoid under or overtightening by providing the proper torque levels when tightening fasteners.

Power Tools

  • Band saw: Band saws are electric saws with a long, sharp blade that can make straight, rounded, or curved cuts.
  • Belt sander: A belt sander are woodworking tools used for smoothing rough areas or leveling large surfaces by sanding with the grain.
  • Benchtop drill press: These heavy-duty drill presses are mostly used for woodworking or metalworking projects when precise holes of the same size need to be bored.
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  • Bench vise: Bench vises hold materials in place when making cuts, allowing for more precision and less risk of injury.
  • Circular saw: Circular saws are one of the most common electric tools. They make simple straight cuts of wood and other materials with ease.
  • Drills: Cordless drills can help drive in nails on various materials or drill holes in seconds.
  • Electric chainsaw: Primarily used for cutting wood, electric chainsaws have a reduced noise level and are easier to maintain than their gas counterparts.
  • Electric screwdriver: Less powerful than a drill but more convenient than a handheld screwdriver, an electric screwdriver uses a buit-in motor to turn screws and rotate bits.
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  • Hammer drill: Similar to an impact driver, a hammer drill is an electric tool used to bore holes through hard surfaces.
  • Heat gun: Heat guns deliver hot air to surfaces which is helpful for stripping paint, removing wallpaper, and sealing foam.
  • Impact driver: Impact drivers repeatedly drive screws with heavy-duty power and torque.
  • Jigsaw: Jigsaws cut curves, shapes, and bevels into materials like wood, metal, and fiberglass.
  • Log splitter: A log splitter does exactly what the name implies, cutting large pieces of wood into smaller pieces.
  • Miter saw: Miter saws are useful for making precise cuts at various angles, and are most often used for carpentry or cutting long boards.
  • Nail gun (or nailer): Nail guns automatically drive in nails, eliminating the need for manually hammering them in place.
  • Planer: A planer can help smooth out wood surfaces. Planers are available in handheld, electric, benchtop, and stationary models depending on your needs and the size of your work space.
  • Pole saw: Due to their extended design, pole saws are perfect for reaching high areas, such as pruning large trees and shrubs or removing branches.
  • Random orbital sander: Unlike belt sanders, random orbital sanders go in multiple directions without needing to sand with the grain, producing a finer finish that&#;s ideal for smaller pieces of wood.
  • Reciprocating saw: Reciprocating saws can cut through difficult materials, making them a popular choice for construction or renovation projects.
  • Rotary tool: A rotary tool is a handheld power tool with a fast-spinning motor that can be used for various tasks such as sanding, cutting, drilling, or polishing.
  • Table saw: Table saws can make crosscuts, rip cuts, or dado cuts, making them a highly versatile woodworking tool for DIYers.

Tool Accessories and Measurement Tools

  • Drill bits: Every toolbox should have a variety of drill bits on hand to match the size, cut, and material type of the hole that needs to be drilled.
  • Flashlight: A high-quality flashlight can be handy in many DIY situations, such as when working in a dark area or when you need to look at a specific part of a machine that&#;s hard to see.
  • Laser level: Laser levels reflect a beam along the horizontal and/or vertical axis, which helps create precise measurements for hanging or assembling items or even for when laying down pipes during construction projects.
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  • Pocket hole jig: This tool makes it easy to drill an angled hole into a workpiece, where it can be connected to a second workpiece with a self-tapping screw.
  • Safety glasses: Safety glasses help keep your eyes protected when using tools of any kind. They are especially important to wear when working with materials that could fly off and hit you in the eye or face.
  • Sawhorse: Sawhorses are used to support boards or planks when sawing or painting.
  • Shears: Shears are more powerful than standard scissors but perform the same function. They can be used for cutting through metal or for gardening and outdoor tasks.
  • Socket set: Socket sets provide a wide range of sockets to secure a range of various nuts and bolts.
  • Socket organizer: To keep all of your sockets organized in your garage, a socket organizer can keep them categorized by size so you can easily find the one you need.
  • Staple gun: Staple guns can drive heavy staples into materials like wood, wiring, or masonry.
  • Stud finder: Stud finders help you locate studs inside your drywall, which can be helpful for hanging paintings, televisions, or other heavy objects.
  • Tape measure: Tape measures can give exact measurements in your home, which can help you ensure you&#;re buying the right size furniture and appliances or make precise cuts on DIY projects.
  • Utility knife: Utility knives are often seen in the kitchen, but they are also useful in a toolbox, as they can slice through cardboard, PVC, and other light-duty materials.
  • Washers: Washers are circular pieces of hardware that work to evenly distribute the force of a screw or nut.
  • Work gloves: Any serious DIYer needs at least one quality pair of work gloves to keep their hands protected and clean while operating tools.
  • Welding tables: Typical workbenches won&#;t work for welding projects, so a welding table is needed to handle the weight and heat.

While each tool will have unique features, there are some common components you should look out for in whichever tool you buy. Here are some of the most important factors to consider when shopping for new tools.

Durability

Tools should also be highly durable and withstand years of continuous use. Note the material the tool is made of and check reviews from other consumers to read about any potential issues with wear and tear. Tools made with heavy-duty materials like metal are more likely to hold up than those made from materials like plastic.

You can also take steps to increase the durability of your tool by cleaning it regularly and only using it as intended.

Portability

Depending on the type of tool you&#;re using, its weight and portability may be important factors. Lightweight and cordless tools are easier to move from place to place and can adjust quicker than heavier tools. Many tools also come with convenient carrying cases, handles, or hooks that make them easy to move around.

Power Level/Speed

While lightweight tools are easier to carry, they may lack overall power, which is especially important when purchasing power tools. Tools with higher torque levels, RPM, or other heavy-duty power indicators will make finishing your project more efficient. However, there are some possible drawbacks to high-powered tools. First, they can be more difficult to operate and are cumbersome to move around. They may also present a significant barrier to entry for inexperienced consumers and will likely cost more than smaller, less robust tools.

Safety Features

Tools, especially power and electric tools, should have built-in safety features that help prevent accidents and protect you from misuse. For example, many tools come with molded grips that help protect your hands as you operate them. Others have an automatic shutoff that ensures they stop when they get overheated or tip over. Others feature a safety switch that can turn the tool off in an emergency. Tools should also come with specific instructions that help ensure you&#;re operating them correctly and not damaging the device.

Usability

Other than safety, the most critical aspect of a tool is that it works properly and is easy to use. Tools that don&#;t function as intended can make working with them frustrating and possibly dangerous. Check individual product reviews and descriptions to estimate how simple it will be to use a tool, and look for specific product features that will make it easier to use. For example, cordless drills may be easier to maneuver than corded drills.

Once you&#;ve established your tool collection, the next step is keeping it organized. Here are some essential items to store your tools in your garage, shed or bring with you.

  • Garage shelving: Keeping your toolboxes and other items organized on shelving units can help free up space in the middle of your garage and make it easy to locate items when you need them.
  • Pegboard: A pegboard is a great way to display your tools and keep them organized and visible.
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  • Tool backpack: If you travel with tools a lot, a tool backpack is the perfect way to keep them on you at all times without having to physically carry them from place to place.
  • Tool bag: Alternatively, a durable tool bag should be sufficient if you only plan on moving tools around your house or garage. Tool bags frequently come with various compartments that make it easy to store tools and keep them sorted properly.
  • Tool belt: If you want to be able to quickly grab tools while working on a project, a toolbelt provides instant access, reducing the need to keep returning to the toolbox.
  • Toolbox: Any serious DIYer has at least one durable toolbox for storing all of their most trusted tools. Toolboxes come in various sizes and shapes to best match your DIY needs.
  • Tool chest: Unlike a toolbox, a tool chest stores tools in drawers. Some also include a top table for setting tools down or completing small projects.
  • Tool organizer: Finally, there are tool organizers, which typically take the form of a basket, small case, or shelf. These organizers are most suited for small hand tools or items like nuts and bolts that need to be kept well organized.

Some tools have built-in safety features, but you can do more to ensure you&#;re operating the equipment safely. Here are some things you should always do when operating a power tool.

  • Always wear safety equipment such as safety glasses, work boots, and gloves. You should also wear long sleeves and pants and avoid loose clothing and open-toed shoes.
  • Keep your work area secure. You should have a dedicated working location with a sturdy base like a workbench.
  • Clear the area of potential hazards. Clear the floor and working station before you start working, so you don&#;t accidentally run into something or trip over a loose item.
  • Keep children and pets clear of the area while you work to avoid any possible accidents.
  • Don&#;t operate machinery if you&#;re intoxicated or impaired in any way. You should also avoid using power tools if you&#;re tired or distracted.
  • Ensure all tools are unplugged and kept in a safe location after you finish working.
  • Check your tools regularly (when they aren&#;t plugged in) to ensure they aren&#;t jammed or broken. If they are, don&#;t try to operate them until the issue is fixed. If you start to feel resistance while you work, turn the device off and unplug or power it down immediately.

What Are the Most Trusted Tool Brands?

While the best tool brand largely depends on the type of tool you are buying, some brands stand out as the most trusted among consumers. Some retailers known to make high-quality tools include:

  • Black + Decker
  • Bosch
  • Craftsman
  • DeWalt
  • Festool
  • Hilti
  • Husky
  • IRWIN
  • Kobalt
  • Makita
  • Metabo
  • Milwaukee
  • Porter-Cable
  • RIGID
  • RYOBI
  • Skil
  • WEN

Frequently Asked Questions about Tools

How much should I spend on a high-quality tool?

The type of tool, power level, and brand will affect the price you will end up paying for a tool. Before making a purchase, consider how often you will use the tool. Are you buying it for a specific DIY project and don&#;t plan to use it regularly? Or are you looking to take up a new hobby, such as woodworking, that will require the tool to be used monthly or weekly?

Keep in mind that power tools, especially those with a high capacity, can be expensive. Hand tools will cost less but will also be more labor-intensive. If you&#;re taking up a new hobby and cost is a concern, try starting with a low-end power tool and see if it meets your needs. You can always upgrade later if needed.

When is the best month to buy tools?

When hunting for the best deals on tools, check for seasonal deals that may come about during Labor Day, Black Friday, Cyber Monday, or Amazon Prime Day. You may also find good deals on retailers in the spring before Father&#;s Day. However, individual brands may decide at any time to put their products on sale. Once you&#;ve identified the tools you&#;re looking for, check back regularly to their Amazon store to see if any products have been discounted.

What are the first tools I should buy?

If you&#;re a new homeowner or a beginner just starting your tool collection, start with tools that will be easy to pick up and can serve multiple functions. A screwdriver set, hand saw, hammer, socket set, drill bits, adjustable wrenches, and a power drill will give you a good place to start, and you can add more tools as you get more comfortable.

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A Buyer's Guide to Benchtop CNC Machines

As CNC machines have grown in capability and popularity, they're finding their way into more and more home shops. With small footprints and relatively low price tags, benchtop CNCs&#;essentially robotic routers&#;provide a good way to dip your toe into the "tech" side of woodworking. If you're intrigued by the idea, but don't know a gantry from a spindle, we'll help you understand the important things to look for in a CNC.

First, determine your budget

Benchtop CNC units sell from about $1,500 to $6,000, with many variables that affect pricing. As with many tool purchases, first decide not only how much can you spend, but also how much should you spend? In other words, what will it take to get a machine that will do what you need it to do? Remember this adage: "Buy the best and you'll only cry once." Precision, tight tolerances, and durability typically add cost. A low-cost machine may not give you the performance you need, adding frustration and buyer's regret. And as technology changes&#;both with the CNC software and the computers required to operate them&#;your setup might become less nimble or effective over time.

Pick the appropriate envelope

Like any machine, a CNC unit has a given workpiece capacity, called its "envelope," expressed as the maximum travel in the X, Y, and Z axes (photos, below). So your next buying-decision line in the sand is, what do you want to make? Will you be carving small signs or cutting out cabinet parts? Understanding how you plan to use your CNC determines what capacities the machine needs.

The bed on the machine in the first photo below provides a 24×24" envelope in the X and Y axes. However, that doesn't limit workpieces to the size of the bed. Although the gantry supports limit size in the X direction, the Y capacity is effectively limitless, thanks to tiling.

Look for X and Y travel in the machine&#;s specifications to determine the size of pieces the machine can handle.

The Z-axis (vertical) travel limits the thickness of material you can cut on the CNC.

CNC software allows you to divide large jobs into sections (tiles), providing virtually infinite capacity in one dimension.

CNC tiling allows you to machine a portion of the workpiece&#;a "tile"&#;then slide the workpiece, machine another tile, move the workpiece, and so on (photo, above). You're limited only by the length of the workpiece you can support as it extends beyond the CNC. Dowels bored into the spoilboard and workpiece (the sacrificial MDF on the machine bed used to avoid cutting into the metal bed) register the location of the workpiece to align the tiles. Although tiling your work does extend your workspace, I wouldn't want to do it all the time. First, creating the tiling toolpath requires more work than creating a standard toolpath, and then registering the workpiece on the CNC can get fussy. If you plan to routinely cut long parts, get an envelope large enough to minimize tiling.

The Z axis defines the vertical travel of a cutter. As you look at this specification, keep in mind that the router bit or cutter and the space needed for it to travel over the workpiece reduce the Z-axis capacity (photo, above). So cutting completely through 1-1&#;2"-thick material requires Z-axis travel of 3-1&#;4" or more. And if a machine doesn't come with a spoilboard, remember that adding one reduces the stated Z-axis travel by that board's thickness.

Plot your work plans

Highly detailed work, such as this engraving on granite, requires a CNC that provides absolute precision and tight tolerances.

Carving ordinary wood plaques and signs with large letters and numbers demands less precision than creating a detailed image (photo, above) or cutting out project parts that need a precise fit. Give yourself permission to buy a machine that offers less precision if the work you'll be doing doesn't demand tight tolerances.

Watch George's video "CNC routers can do all that?"

Allow for future growth

This might be the hardest part: anticipating how you'll use your CNC in the future. Today's simple work may grow into projects that require tighter tolerances. Will you develop the need to cut larger pieces? The X-Y travel on benchtop machines varies widely. Large signs, door panels, and cabinet parts require a larger-format CNC.

A fourth-axis-compatible machine allows you to add a rotary device, similar to a lathe, to your CNC.

Some benchtop machines can do work in a fourth axis: rotation (photo, above). This allows you to create almost any round, cylindrical, or spiral piece, such as table legs or chess pieces, that you'd make on a lathe. If you might want this in the future, buy a machine now with the capability to add this accessory later.

Obviously, down the road you can just buy a larger machine, and that might not be a bad thing as technology improves and prices decrease. You may pay the same amount in 5 years for a larger, more capable machine as what you pay for a lesser-equipped model today. (As with all technology, or having children, you just have to jump in at some point&#;there might never be an ideal time.)

Pay attention to the logistics of adding a CNC router to your shop, such as total footprint, power requirements, portability, and dust collection.

How a CNC fits in the shop

As you consider adding a CNC to your shop, consider how well your shop will accommodate this new tool (photo, above).

&#;&#;Power requirements: Benchtop CNCs come prewired for either 110 or 220 volts, with varying amperage requirements. Make sure you have a power supply that meets or exceeds the needs of the machine.

&#;&#;A stand or bench: Some manufacturers offer stands for their machines, but not all do. You can also custom-build a stand. A bench or stand on casters allows you to roll the machine out of the way when not in use.

Routing on a CNC creates so much fine dust that you definitely need a dust shroud around the bit, allowing you to connect to a vacuum or collector.

&#;&#;Dust collection: I would not run a CNC without some type of dust collection. A large shop vacuum suffices for most benchtop units, but the dust can quickly clog the vac's filter, reducing its effectiveness. A dust collector, with higher airflow (CFM), usually works better. You might get a dust shroud (photo, above) with the machine; if not, they typically sell as accessories. Like other tools in your shop, the shrouds typically accept 2-1&#;2" or 4" hose.

Sample the software before buying

Most CNC companies recommend VCarve Pro ($699) or VCarve Desktop ($349) for designing projects and creating CNC toolpaths. The software sometimes comes with the machine, but not always. Some companies have their own machine-specific design and toolpath software. Check before buying your machine so you know if software adds expense. Most software requires a Windows operating system, but some will run on a Macintosh system using Parallels software.

Check your comfort level with using CNC-related software before investing in a machine. Test drive the VCarve software by downloading a free trial from vectric.com. When you design projects, nearly any clip art can be turned into a file you can cut with a CNC. You also can purchase a huge variety of 3-D files at Design & Make (designandmake.com).

Features to consider

As you evaluate benchtop CNC units, you'll find a variety of "function" choices in motors, drive types, computer hardware, and more. Let's sort these out.

Router or spindle?

Designed to run for long periods, a dedicated spindle will outlast a router over the life of your CNC machine.

A CNC machine uses one of two methods to spin the bits: a dedicated spindle (photo, above) or a router (photo, below). Let's look at the differences between the two.

Routers cost less than spindles and can be easily replaced if breakdown occurs.

Spindle

  • Quieter than a router
  • Torque remains consistent throughout its speed range.
  • Spindles usually produce less runout than a router, allowing for greater accuracy.
  • Typically, a spindle has an infinitely adjustable speed range of 0&#;24,000 rpm. The ability to drop below 12,000 rpm&#;the bottom end for most routers&#;proves better for cutting nonferrous metals.
  • Spindles typically come with ER-style collets (see Spindle collets make accuracy more achievable, below); available size depends on the spindle.

Spindles can be water-cooled or air-cooled. On some water-cooled systems, the water pump automatically turns on and off with the spindle. On others, you must manually turn the pump on; forgetting to do this can damage the spindle. Any water-cooled system is self-contained, so there's no risk of the coolant getting on your work. I prefer an air-cooled spindle or a completely automatic water-cooled spindle.

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Router

  • Costs less than a spindle
  • Torque can vary through the speed range, which might not be a problem (until it is). Compensate by making shallower cuts.
  • Some CNC machines use a trim or compact router (1-1&#;4 hp or less) rather than a more robust midsize router. Unlike trim routers, midsize routers include electronic feedback to maintain spindle speed, and collets that accept 1&#;4"- and 1&#;2"-shank bits; 1&#;2"-shank bits are less prone to breakage.

A router-powered CNC machine works fine, but given the option and budget, go with a spindle for higher accuracy and longer life.

Get turned on (and off)

If you get a machine with a spindle, it almost certainly turns on automatically when you start a toolpath and turns off when that toolpath ends. Some router-based machines include auto on/off, while others offer an optional control box to do this.

Turning a router on and off manually each time you start and stop a toolpath isn't a deal-breaker, but you must remember to turn it on before beginning the toolpath or you'll likely break the router bit and damage your workpiece. I much prefer doing whatever it takes to have auto on and off.

Spindle collets make accuracy more achievable

Spindles typically come equipped with ER collets. Routers use larger nuts to house their collets.

Routers in CNC machines use the same collets that you find on any router. However, most CNC spindles use ER collets. What's an ER collet? The E is a holdover from naming items with a letter series, while the R is for Rego-Fix, the company that made the collet self-releasing. ER collets get machined to tighter tolerances than standard router collets. This might prove a huge factor when you're trying to do precision work. When evaluating spindles, opt for ER collets when available.

Drivers, move your bits

When it comes to moving the spindle or router in the X, Y, and Z axes on a benchtop machine, you have three choices: belt drive, lead screw, or ball screw.

On belt-driven machines, motion in the X and Y directions comes via a flat ribbed belt traveling over cogged pulleys.

&#; Belt drive: Cogs on the pulleys prevent belt slippage, but as you use the machine, dust in the cogs might interfere with the belt engaging. Wide belts, such as the 15mm one shown in the photo above, work more effectively than narrow belts. A belt won't develop surface rust like lead or ball screws can. Belt systems typically move the bit position faster than screw systems, but don't handle heavy loads as well. As long as you use the system within its capabilities, you'll be fine.

Belts can stretch, potentially affecting accuracy, but if one does stretch or break, it's easy to replace. Realistically, a belt can last a very long time and be tightened if it does stretch a little.

&#; Screw drives: With both types of screw drives, the screw transfers the rotary motion of a motor to the linear motion required to move in the X, Y, and Z axes. A screw system works similarly to a threaded rod and nut: Imagine the nut captured in a housing on the CNC. As the screw turns, the captured nut moves the spindle or gantry (the bridge to which the spindle mounts).

Lead screws create more friction and operate less efficiently than ball screws.

The threads on a lead screw (photo, above) feature slightly rounded edges, quite different from a threaded rod, and purpose-designed for the loads caused by movement. The threads engage with a self-lubricating nut with wear compensation built in.

Ball screws can carry heavier loads than their lead screw counterparts.

A ball screw nut (photo, above) contains ball bearings that roll in the concave recesses of the screw. Ball screws enjoy an edge in accuracy over lead screws, thanks to less backlash. Most ball screws require manual lubrication, though they create little friction and work very efficiently. This translates to long life and good transfer of power from the motor to the screw to the router bit.

All of these systems work, but given the choice, opt for a ball screw system.

Motor choice drives cost

Benchtop CNCs typically use stepper motors to drive motion in the X, Y, and Z axes.

CNC motors come in two types: stepper and servo. A stepper motor (photo, above) operates on what's called an open-loop system. This means the software sends a signal to the motor to move, and it assumes the motor did what it should. A servo motor operates on a closed loop. In this case, the system sends the signal to the motor to move, and then double-checks to make sure the correct move happened. Servos provide a better approach, and you'll see them on large-format CNCs, but rarely on benchtops. So if you want this option, be prepared to pay at least $10,000 for a larger machine.

The brains of the operation

Once you create your project design and toolpath, that information gets transmitted to the CNC via a fob (also called a pendant). Or, you may have to plug a computer directly into the machine.

Some CNCs require an external computer plugged in to operate the toolpath, which means having it in the shop alongside your machine.

The CNC typically connects to your computer via a USB port. Many users build a cabinet for the computer to protect it from the dusty environment. On the Shapeoko CNC (photo, above), you can do other tasks on the computer while it's running the toolpath, which I prefer. With some CNCs, the computer "locks up," meaning for the duration of the cut you can't use the computer for anything else. It doesn't take much of a computer to run the CNC, so if you go this route, shop for an inexpensive new or used computer and dedicate it to the task.

Fobs are purpose-built to live and work in a dusty environment without the computer plugged in.

If the CNC has a fob, you'll do your design and toolpath work on a computer, save the toolpath to a flash drive, and plug that flash drive into the fob (photo, above). Regardless of whether you use the computer directly or a fob, functionality is very similar. You use the device to zero your axes, control the speed of travel, and set up the machine.

Get in touch with the bit

Lower the bit until it contacts the touch plate. Then reset the Z axis &#;zero&#; point on the fob.

Every time you put a new bit in the collet or use a different thickness of workpiece, you need to teach the bit the height of the wood surface, a process called zeroing the Z axis (photo, above). The touch plate may come with the machine or be an accessory. It's definitely worth having.

Do lots of research in advance

Honestly, it's always difficult to give tool-buying advice, and even more so with CNCs. The ideal bottom line: Buy your last tool first. Evaluate your CNC goals and use those to narrow your search, keeping future growth in mind. Look for and attend a CNC user group in your area or online so you can talk to people about their machine choices and experiences and get real-world practical information. Look for CNC classes in your area and tire-kick machines before you buy. If possible, attend a trade show where you can visit with multiple manufacturers and see firsthand several machines.

About the CNCs featured in this article

Axiom Iconic-4

Designed and built with big-time features and performance, but at a smaller scale. Axiom also sells machines in other sizes. The Iconic CNC machines do not accept a fourth axis, but their Pro series machines do.

Features

  • X-axis travel 23.8"; Y-axis travel 24.1"; Z-axis travel 3.9"
  • 1-hp air-cooled spindle
  • 1&#;4" and 1&#;8" ER collets
  • Auto on/off spindle
  • Ball screws throughout
  • Fob included
  • Z-axis touch plate included
  • Optional dust shroud
  • No CAD/CAM software included

844-642- axiomprecision.com

Shapeoko Pro

Pay attention to the logistics of adding a CNC router to your shop, such as total footprint, power requirements, portability, and dust collection.

This is a very capable machine with a large work envelope, and includes Shapeoko's Bitsetter touch plate. Unlike other Z touch plates, Bitsetter also locates the corners of your workpiece for the X-Y origin.

Features

  • X-axis travel 33"; Y-axis travel 33"; Z-axis travel 4"
  • Router not included; accepts any trim router with a 65mm-diameter motor, or purchase Shapeoko's optional 1-hp Carbide ER-11 compact router, which includes 1&#;4" and 1&#;8" ER collets.
  • Requires purchase of Bitrunner accessory for auto on/off
  • Belt drive on X and Y axes. Lead screw on Z axis
  • Requires a computer with OS/X 10.14 or higher operating system or Windows 8, 10, or 11 (Intel or AMD processor).
  • Optional Z touch plate
  • Dust shroud included
  • Carbide Motion software included; this software runs the CNC and must be installed on the computer used with the tool.
  • Carbide Create 2-D CAD/CAM software included for designing and creating toolpaths
  • Cannot accept a fourth axis

310-504-, carbide3d.com

Next Wave Shark HD500

All Next Wave machines (except the SD100) come with their Virtual Zero Unlimited software. This cool technology allows you to map 3-D surfaces so you can then machine over that surface, such as adding lettering toa rounded surface. Virtual Zero lets you do that without creating a 3-D model.

Features

  • X-axis travel 13"; Y-axis travel 25"; Z-axis travel 7"
  • Router not included; accepts 31&#;2"-diameter router motors, such as the Bosch , DeWalt DW618, or Porter-Cable 890 series (optional 2-hp water-cooled spindle)
  • Auto on/off for router
  • Lead screws throughout
  • Fob included
  • VCarve Desktop included
  • Must provide your own spoilboard
  • Accepts a fourth axis
  • Optional Z touch plate
  • Optional dust shroud

419-318- nextwavecnc.com

Portable CNC: The Next Gen

Shaper Origin routs the preset toolpath&#;in this case an oblong opening for a grommet&#;in all three axes as you move it around the workpiece.

Shaper Origin (shapertools.com) is a handheld CNC worth considering. This portable CNC&#;about the size of a 3-hp plunge router&#;allows you to take the tool to the work instead of the work to the tool, fits in a toolbox, and can store under a workbench when not in use. Origin orients itself to coded "domino" tape applied to your workpiece (photo, above), so you have virtually no X-Y limitations. This means you can easily CNC-carve in the middle of a large workpiece&#;something next to impossible on a benchtop CNC. You run it hands-on, tracking the bit location on the toolpath using the built-in screen. Origin makes minor corrections to the bit location to stay on the toolpath. Because it looks and operates like a handheld router, it feels more like "real" woodworking. With a conventional CNC, you push a button and do other work while it cuts.

For more machine tool cablesinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.